cam or not that is the question?

[turbot2112]

im getting ready to install a set of heads and intake, and was wanting to install a new cam and lifters. something like a 206 206, but i keep hearing about people wiping cam lobes out.i gues my question is, is it really worth it. tia :)

[1badTTA]

My opinion is that the factory cams will last nearly forever and there is a high rate of aftermarket cams going south (BTDT, lasted 1,000 miles, reinstalled the factory cam and am still driving on it 15,000 miles later) and with these engines there is very little power to be had with a cam swap so it isn't worth it. I would run the stock cam till it is at it's limits and then go roller. JMHO

[turbot2112]

thanks, the more i read and hear i think i will be doing just that. :)

[TurboMike]

My opinion is that the factory cams will last nearly forever and there is a high rate of aftermarket cams going south (BTDT, lasted 1,000 miles, reinstalled the factory cam and am still driving on it 15,000 miles later) and with these engines there is very little power to be had with a cam swap so it isn't worth it. I would run the stock cam till it is at it's limits and then go roller. JMHO

I agree. Many people are in the 10's with a stocker. I think i'd only go with a billet roller if i was going to upgrade.

[turbot2112]

I agree. Many people are in the 10's with a stocker. I think i'd only go with a billet roller if i was going to upgrade.thats what ive been thinking and i cant see droping that kind of money right now. i think the champion ported irons and intake will be a huge diffrence without the cam. thanks
:rock_dj:

[HairDrier]

Its hard to beat the spoolup and low end torque of the stocker also.

Roller cams are the shit, but I wont be able to afford one for a long time

[Jimn8or]

Not trying to be the contrarian here but here's another thought at least. I did put in a 208/208 cam from www.johnsperformance.com and am very happy I did. Like a paint job, preparation plays a major role in the final result. I have seen wiped cams from other people's cars, it is ugly! Without a turbo saver your new camshaft that went flat will prolly take it out too. Every cam I have ever installed I have used the entire bottle/tube of camshaft break-in goop. I let the new lifters sit in a spotless coffee can, with enough straight 30W oil in it to completely cover them, for a day. Take the time to set the cam sensor correctly, the crank sensor as well and light 'er up with straight 30W oil in the crankcase, run it up to 2500 rpm for 20 minutes, then fluctuate the rpm between 2000 and 3000 for another 10 minutes. Change the friggen oil and filter! Fill 'er up with whatever your favorite oil is and you're done! Many, many a cam I have changed over the last 25 years including my GN's, followed the above {Crane Cams tech] procedures and never, ever had a single problem with a camshaft failing or going flat.
HTH
Jim

[turbot2112]

Not trying to be the contrarian here but here's another thought at least. I did put in a 208/208 cam from www.johnsperformance.com and am very happy I did. Like a paint job, preparation plays a major role in the final result. I have seen wiped cams from other people's cars, it is ugly! Without a turbo saver your new camshaft that went flat will prolly take it out too. Every cam I have ever installed I have used the entire bottle/tube of camshaft break-in goop. I let the new lifters sit in a spotless coffee can, with enough straight 30W oil in it to completely cover them, for a day. Take the time to set the cam sensor correctly, the crank sensor as well and light 'er up with straight 30W oil in the crankcase, run it up to 2500 rpm for 20 minutes, then fluctuate the rpm between 2000 and 3000 for another 10 minutes. Change the friggen oil and filter! Fill 'er up with whatever your favorite oil is and you're done! Many, many a cam I have changed over the last 25 years including my GN's, followed the above Cams tech] procedures and never, ever had a single problem with a camshaft failing or going flat.
HTH
Jimreally, now you got me thinking again, maybe ill just do it and see what happens.the more power the merrier. :rock_dj:

[TurboMike]

I have never wiped a cam on any motor i've built (countless TR's also) but alot of people have and alot of them were excellent techs that took every precaution. I guess it's up to the owner to decide if it's worth the chance. If you wipe, it cost you a turbo and sometimes a motor (which will add up to over $1k) If you have to upgrade your cam, go roller and it'll cost $1k but you won't have to worry about it.

[Bruce]

im getting ready to install a set of heads and intake, and was wanting to install a new cam and lifters. something like a 206 206, but i keep hearing about people wiping cam lobes out.i gues my question is, is it really worth it. tia :)

There are new oil standards going into effect in the not too distant future, the limit the amount of additives that can be added to oil. The additives are the anti-scuffing chemicals. So your libel to start seeing more cam failures.

Start saving, and go with a hydralic roller, would be my advise. Will it give you a big boost in performance?, well depending on how big it is, maybe not. Will it likely improve engine life? probably.

I've run the Crane and the Comp cam 206/206 rollers, without issue, and both idle well, and run well. That and Cotton had all the pieces on hand and shipped the Comp version with the bits I needed the day I ordered it.

BTW, when there was that budget roller fiasco, while folks were having cams die in just hours, I went 6K miles with one, and the only difference was I was running valvoline racing oil. Just a FWIW...

[turbot2112]

decissions, decissions, well igot a couple weeks to think about it. thanks guys. :gruebel:

[SUPER6]

decissions, decissions, well igot a couple weeks to think about it. thanks guys. :gruebel:
I am in the same boat with you. I replaced my timing chain, rear main seal and blueprinted the front cover. When i took the oil pan off i noticed some metal shavings in the bottom of the pan. Seems to be the #3 exhaust lobe. Now I want to go roller so i don't have to worry about another lobe wiping. Priced the ductile rollers and they are just as high as the billet rollers that atr and pte offers. I am going to go with a billet roller and be done with it. I know you have to keep a good strong valve spring or the roller lifter will bounce off the cam and hammer it.......hth Bob :add_schac

[JayC]

I am in the same boat with you. I replaced my timing chain, rear main seal and blueprinted the front cover. When i took the oil pan off i noticed some metal shavings in the bottom of the pan. Seems to be the #3 exhaust lobe. Now I want to go roller so i don't have to worry about another lobe wiping. Priced the ductile rollers and they are just as high as the billet rollers that atr and pte offers. I am going to go with a billet roller and be done with it. I know you have to keep a good strong valve spring or the roller lifter will bounce off the cam and hammer it.......hth Bob :add_schac
Well, let me give you something else to think about.

#1 - Precision sells no engine parts whatsoever anymore. All of that has moved to DLS Engine Development.

#2 - ATR just can't seem to get the billet rollers in stock. I had one ordered for a customer for 4 months and finally canceled it and went with the ductile roller. I do believe that overall the ductile roller is a little cheaper.

That being said, I will not (WILL NOT) build an engine for someone if they refuse to use a roller cam. I have had relatively good luck with flat tappets, using many brands in many engines and only had 1 failure which ironically enough, was in my own car.

However, it only takes one to sour you on the whole flat tappet thing. Now, it's roller or find someone else to do it. In the long run, it saves you a lot of headaches and gives you peace of mind. Do it once and forget about it.

[Quickt]

Well, let me give you something else to think about.

#1 - Precision sells no engine parts whatsoever anymore. All of that has moved to DLS Engine Development.

#2 - ATR just can't seem to get the billet rollers in stock. I had one ordered for a customer for 4 months and finally canceled it and went with the ductile roller. I do believe that overall the ductile roller is a little cheaper.

That being said, I will not (WILL NOT) build an engine for someone if they refuse to use a roller cam. I have had relatively good luck with flat tappets, using many brands in many engines and only had 1 failure which ironically enough, was in my own car.

However, it only takes one to sour you on the whole flat tappet thing. Now, it's roller or find someone else to do it. In the long run, it saves you a lot of headaches and gives you peace of mind. Do it once and forget about it.

I agree with Jay. I said back in 98 after 3 flat tappets took out my motor 3 times. I said I will never own or build another Buick V-6 with a flat tappet cam. Go with the roller I prefer the billets.