HairDrier
01-24-2004, 11:03 PM
Rigging the unused Power Injection light in the dash to light when the alcohol injection pump engages is not difficult and gives your TR a great factory appearance to your alcohol injection system. All TRs have the socket in the dash right below the Service Engine Soon light on the right side light cluster. All I used for the hookup was:
12ft of 14 gauge
Inline 10 amp fuse
Standard automotive 194 style bulb and socket
My car is an 87 and had no bulb or socket in the dash for the PI light. Some 1984 and 1985 models have had the socket and a bulb installed from the factory.
The best place in my opinion to run the hot wire for the bulb is off the positive lead from the Hobbs switch (or whatever type of switch your system uses). It can also be run off of hot lead on the pump, so you know that when the light is on the pump is getting power and the switch is working. This will trigger the light when the pressure switch activates as it senses whatever boost level your system is keyed to turn on at. I ran the wire from the pressure switch back along the firewall and through the firewall on the drivers side, in the same hole the speedometer cable and factory harness go through. Dont forget to put the inline fuse in an area where you can conceal it but still be able to check it easily. I chose to ground my bulb under the dash near the emergency brake release to avoid unnecessary wiring.
Now you must remove the plastic kick panel under the dash. Only two 7mm screws hold this on. Next use a small screwdriver and GENTLY pry all the way around the dash to remove the beauty cover, as it is held in at several different points. Once the beauty cover is off, use a 5mm socket and remove the two silver screws holding the overlay for the lights on the right side. Once the bulbs are revealed you need to remove the four black 7mm screws holding the center section (speedo) in place. You will not be able to move the center section very much, just enough to fish your hot lead and ground over the steering column and to the right side, where you can attach the socket. I was lucky in that the socket I purchased was able to lock in place without modification. I would not purchase a GM dash socket as they have no place to attach the wires.
The best way to test the light IMO is to use a Mighty Vac. I have the Silverline Plus, which cost me about $80 but was well worth every penny. It is a tool for bleeding brake systems, but works awesome for setting pressure switches. Mine has a gauge on top and does both suction and pressure.
To test the light by myself I just disconnected the nozzle in the up pipe and pointed it in the alky tank. Then I could activate the switch and check the light without driving 100mph down the road or filling the engine with alcohol while it sat in the garage.
12ft of 14 gauge
Inline 10 amp fuse
Standard automotive 194 style bulb and socket
My car is an 87 and had no bulb or socket in the dash for the PI light. Some 1984 and 1985 models have had the socket and a bulb installed from the factory.
The best place in my opinion to run the hot wire for the bulb is off the positive lead from the Hobbs switch (or whatever type of switch your system uses). It can also be run off of hot lead on the pump, so you know that when the light is on the pump is getting power and the switch is working. This will trigger the light when the pressure switch activates as it senses whatever boost level your system is keyed to turn on at. I ran the wire from the pressure switch back along the firewall and through the firewall on the drivers side, in the same hole the speedometer cable and factory harness go through. Dont forget to put the inline fuse in an area where you can conceal it but still be able to check it easily. I chose to ground my bulb under the dash near the emergency brake release to avoid unnecessary wiring.
Now you must remove the plastic kick panel under the dash. Only two 7mm screws hold this on. Next use a small screwdriver and GENTLY pry all the way around the dash to remove the beauty cover, as it is held in at several different points. Once the beauty cover is off, use a 5mm socket and remove the two silver screws holding the overlay for the lights on the right side. Once the bulbs are revealed you need to remove the four black 7mm screws holding the center section (speedo) in place. You will not be able to move the center section very much, just enough to fish your hot lead and ground over the steering column and to the right side, where you can attach the socket. I was lucky in that the socket I purchased was able to lock in place without modification. I would not purchase a GM dash socket as they have no place to attach the wires.
The best way to test the light IMO is to use a Mighty Vac. I have the Silverline Plus, which cost me about $80 but was well worth every penny. It is a tool for bleeding brake systems, but works awesome for setting pressure switches. Mine has a gauge on top and does both suction and pressure.
To test the light by myself I just disconnected the nozzle in the up pipe and pointed it in the alky tank. Then I could activate the switch and check the light without driving 100mph down the road or filling the engine with alcohol while it sat in the garage.