Best crimpers and connectors to buy?

[jmidolo]

I'm looking for a set of good cripmpers that put a dimple on the connect when you crimp it. I've got the plier looking kind but I've seen some crimps on harnesses and audio connections that look much better than the $10 crimper does.

So, I'm looking for the best set of crimpers out there and also, what are the best connectors, with a high quality insulation and good crimpability :fragez:

[zam70]

after working in the industry for 15 years I found exactly ONE tool that worked how it should and lasted more than a few crimps.

SnapOn PWC28 (pretty sure that is the #)

It has a cutter and crimper in the nose and the stripper is behind the pivot (like it should be) I never understood the crimper behind the pivot...pain in the ass....

Anyway, seriously, they're a little expensive (30 - 40.00) but they just plain work and never seem to dull. I've had one set for over 10 years and they are still going strong after 10s of thousands of cut/strip/crimps. It'll be the last ones you buy.

[jmidolo]

Found it http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/OBJECTS/43600/43579.JPG

How about brand of connectors? The ones you get Autozone or Autopalace suck....

[HurstGN]

Found it <junk deleted>

How about brand of connectors? The ones you get Autozone or Autopalace suck....
So does that crimper, Joe. Get a professional ratcheting crimper...and don't be afraid to part with about $50 for it. With replaceable dies, you can crimp anything, and it's crimped right. :joint:

Figured I better point you in the right direction before you get lost....
Click here Joe! (http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/ta18920.html)
Now THIS is a crimper!
http://store6.yimg.com/I/sjdiscounttools_1772_2197515

Look to Waytek for connectors. They carry all types

Dan

[jmidolo]

So does that crimper, Joe. Get a professional ratcheting crimper...and don't be afraid to part with about $50 for it. With replaceable dies, you can crimp anything, and it's crimped right. :joint:

Figured I better point you in the right direction before you get lost....
Click here Joe! (http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/ta18920.html)
Now THIS is a crimper!
http://store6.yimg.com/I/sjdiscounttools_1772_2197515

Look to Waytek for connectors. They carry all types

Dan


Yea yea, cool, that's what I had in mind, never seen em in stores and didnt know who made em. $50 for a crimper...big deal. I once bought an dual action polisher for $300 bux..so call me nuts :joint:

[HurstGN]

Here's some interesting reading about crimps...for those that don't think there is a difference in the final product...
Crimper Page (http://www.terminaltown.com/Pages/Page7.html)
Terminal Town also carries loads of stuff.

As far as local stores, we have a Home Depot that carries a little different selection than most of the chain....of note, they carry crimpers like this that come with coax dies installed. I got tired of swapping dies from insulated to non-insulated, so I bought the Home Depot ratchet and swapped in my insulated dies. Now I can quickly crimp either without swapping dies. Nice thing is I still have access to quite a few dies from Paladin tool that fit both handles. My first set are Paladin, been using them for years now. Paladin Tools (http://www.paladin-tools.com/)

Got enough options to pick from now? :zahn:

Dan

[zam70]

That's not it Joe....it's another one....it looks like they might have disco'd the actual design I have. The closest to it is the PWC14 . I'll check mine tonight to see what the actual model # is. Life time warranty too (I've only had to replace mine because I broke the handles...yes, with my hand...ever seen anybody break a bottle bare handed??? :rock: ) http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/pro_det.asp?P65=&tool=hand&item_ID=214&group_ID=796&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog


Usually, it's the crimp that sucks not the connector. Some do have thicker metal though. I use the hole punch style ("non-insulated") of crimp on everything, even on insulated connectors and have yet to have it let me down.

The ratchet style is nice (I have one of those too) but I prefer not to have 3 different tools to use when I can get by with one that does it all. The ratchet style IS the better choice, but more bulky and you'll need mutiple tools (cutter and stripper).

[jmidolo]

Terminal town page is pretty cool. Their connectors are alittle much though...6-7 bux for 10 pieces? sheesh.

[jmidolo]

Usually, it's the crimp that sucks not the connector. (cutter and stripper).


Yea, I've had connectors that when you crimp them...the actual insulation comes off the connector...shitty kind. Where's John Spina hiding ? :)

[nick]

Yea, I've had connectors that when you crimp them...the actual insulation comes off the connector...shitty kind. Where's John Spina hiding ? :)

umm... you want the insulation? **** insulation. thats what heat shrink is for.

the only thing that colored bullshit is good for is quick id of wire gauge...

www.delcity.net

order everything you need from there.. 4ft stick of heat shrink is like 50 cents, so order the solderless connectors without insulation from there.. $4 for 100 give or take a buck depending on type and what not.. they have EVERYTHING.. bad ass prices on wire..

[1badTTA]

I got all my connectors from Bombardier when I worked there (leftovers in my toolbox) so I cant tell you where to get the connectors, but the ratcheting crimpers shown are about the best in design and quality. If you want good connections you should be soldering anyways. Nearly any crimped connection is only contacting the outside of the wire and is sucseptible to corrosion which will cause problems eventually. Solder it and heat shrink it and be done with it forever.

[salvageV6]

As the little voice says in the EA Games commercial.

Solder EVERYTHING...............

:marchmell

[jmidolo]

As the little voice says in the EA Games commercial.

Solder EVERYTHING...............

:marchmell


Yea, you're right. For the most part I usually do, I'm anal like that. I have used crimpers in the past for something quick..

[zam70]

just to generate discussion -

Did you know that car manufaturers DO NOT suggest soldering?

Solder joints crack and can introduce additional resistance in the circuit that is not compensated for. Crimp connectors (properly crimped) do not and is considered the much better connection.

[gnsrule]

Ive got 4-5 pair of the Snap On pcw28 or whatever the pn is in my tool box's. Its the only one I'll use. Ratching ones are too slow for me, and $10 ones are too frickin cheap.
The only problem w/ the snap on one is they just dont crimp down tight enuff for me. I do a double crimp. Crimp it first where they want you to, then put the terminal a little twisted in the corner between the little crimp part and the big crimp part with the split part in the corner. I hope that makes sence. For shit that exposed to the weather, I also fill the terminal w/ silicone first. That makes for a way longer lasting connection. I do that 99.9% of the time. It works for me
Thats what I do for production work, but for the GN's, everything gets solderd.

[gnsrule]

just to generate discussion -

Did you know that car manufaturers DO NOT suggest soldering?

Solder joints crack and can introduce additional resistance in the circuit that is not compensated for. Crimp connectors (properly crimped) do not and is considered the much better connection.

I cant say I've ever heard of that. I've been doin this shit for 24 yrs now and worked at 4 different dealers. I could be wrong, but I've never heard that. Maybe for aluminum wires thats like that...

[zam70]

I cant say I've ever heard of that. I've been doin this shit for 24 yrs now and worked at 4 different dealers. I could be wrong, but I've never heard that. Maybe for aluminum wires thats like that...


Look at it this way: How many OEM connections have you ever seen soldered (wire junctions, plugs etc...)? In my 20 years+ experience - zero.


Admittedly, I've never personally seen a soldered wire connection crack and solder some connections my self...
I have seen lots of soldered circuit board connections crack though.

[gnsrule]

[QUOTE=zam70]Look at it this way: How many OEM connections have you ever seen soldered (wire junctions, plugs etc...)? In my 20 years+ experience - zero.QUOTE]

I belive where you have multiple OEM ground wires spiced into a single wire, ie: headlite grounds, are solderd at their splice.
As far as cracking circuit board connections, I belive thats caused from the weight of the wire and vibration, not necessaraly a thing that solder just does on the 15th yr or so.

Back under my rock

[Razor]

I use the long Klein red handle crimpers. They have a cutter on the end, and two spots for crimping. A non insulated spot, and an insulated. Theyre 20 bucks through any electrical distributor. I've used this style for the last 20 years and never had one crimp fail. Never. I use to have a set looked identical and had the BluePoint engraved on them.

I use a ratcheting crimper for Coax, but its way to bulky to use under a dash or in tight areas.

That Klein crimper does not play :add_schac

For stripping wire, get a wire stripper. Much easier.

Yes solder w/shrink tubing is better. But for low current quick installs.. why fret.

My .02

[turbod1987]

I'm an Electrician and I use some that are the same as Razor describes. The two I have are made by Channel Lock and Thomas and Bettes, both very good quick and easy to use. My guess is you can find the Channel Lock ones at Home Depot.
Dave

[TURBO-V6]

I'll have to say the same here with Razor. Go with the Klien #1005 it should be less than $20 and can be purchased from Sears. It work better than any crimper out there and for 1/2 the price. Snap-on one sucks won't crimp a 22-18 guage crimp good, but the wire cutter is good that's it. The Klien wire cutter is not the best.

http://www.kleintools.com/index.html

[zam70]

Never had a problem crimping any wire with the PWCs but, I always used the "non insulated" crimp.

The Kleins do work great, I just hated having to have to use 2 different tools...1 to strip, one to crimp.
The cutters on the Kleins didn't seem to hold up over the years either...but they did always crimp good.



PS - It's amazing how long a thread can get over such a simple subject... :anbet:

[TurboJim]

So does that crimper, Joe. Get a professional ratcheting crimper...and don't be afraid to part with about $50 for it. With replaceable dies, you can crimp anything, and it's crimped right. :joint:

Figured I better point you in the right direction before you get lost....
Click here Joe! (http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/ta18920.html)
Now THIS is a crimper!
http://store6.yimg.com/I/sjdiscounttools_1772_2197515

Look to Waytek for connectors. They carry all types

Dan
Thats the set I have, very nice, and you dont need one hand to hold the terminal and the other to crimp. Put the terminal in the tool ratchet it snug, slip on and squeeze. Never had a crimp fail. In my new job, we solder/shrink tube every connection, so I dont really use them much anymore.

[V6DVette]

Well, I've been doing this for more years then I like to remember. I ONLY use the T&B crimpers and Sta-Kon connectors. Puts a nice dimple in the Sta-Kon and haven't had one ever fail.(if done right)
About 15 years ago I was rewiring a friends boat. He wanted all the connectors soldered. Found out the some Coast Guard rule for wiring said "only mechanical connections" were aloud. Seems they're concern is that a soldered fitting could over heat and the solder flow out and break connection. Leaving you stranded in the middle of the ocean....Not on the side of the road. Good enough for me....I do use shrink tubing if I feel the connection may be exposed to water or vibrations (more then normal)



I'm never gonna finish this car! :dong: