View Full Version : changing turbo
ledzeppac
01-27-2005, 04:16 PM
Hey guys I am going to put on the new turbo this weekend.
Is there any tips that I should follow? Remembers its my first time doing it.
Do I need any new gaskets? How should I drain the oil from turbo?
Or is it just take off and replace with new one?
thanks for the help
Phil
Start spraying the bolts now with some PB Blaster. Spray 'em three times a day. The PB will burn off when you drive...dont worry if you see smoke comming from under the hood. That scared the crap out of me untill I realized what it was.
When your taking the bolts out do the old tighten before you loosen trick.
I dont know about anyone else but I had a hella hard time putting the oil drainback back on. Not much room and hard to get the bolt started.
You'll need a gasket for the drainback and get a copper gasket for your turbo/header connection.
DCEPTCN
01-27-2005, 04:29 PM
I dont know about anyone else but I had a hella hard time putting the oil drainback back on. Not much room and hard to get the bolt started.
Buddy, you aint kiddin'! Trying to hold that sumbitch in place with one hand and get a bolt to thread upside-down was a real pain. I threw the wrench on that one! Other than that, it's pretty self explanatory. One piece of advice: when you're done, have someone else start the car while you keep an eye on the turbo. My oil feed line wasn't tight enough and was leaking a lot of oil very fast- I had to shout, 'Kill it- kill it!' and tighten it up. It's a bitch, but it's simple.
ledzeppac
01-27-2005, 04:32 PM
ok so its a no go for this weekend! I dont have an oil drainback gasket...
I do have the copper one though.
I spent over an hour and a half on the 4th bolt of the elbow last weekend. The one on the bottom. That sucked, I almost gave up.
DCEPTCN
01-27-2005, 04:35 PM
ok so its a no go for this weekend! I dont have an oil drainback gasket...
I do have the copper one though.
I spent over an hour and a half on the 4th bolt of the elbow last weekend. The one on the bottom. That sucked, I almost gave up.My drainback gasket was fine, so I didn't replace it. Maybe not a good idea, though. I spent about 3 hours on the swap, but a better mechanic than me would have it done in far less time than that.
ledzeppac
01-27-2005, 04:42 PM
Is there a good amount of oil in the turbo after I let it cool. Or am I going to make a HUGE mess?
DCEPTCN
01-27-2005, 04:44 PM
Is there a good amount of oil in the turbo after I let it cool. Or am I going to make a HUGE mess?That's not even an issue to worry about...there's hardly any.
DCEPTCN
01-27-2005, 04:45 PM
Wait a minute....are you puttin' on that '60?
ledzeppac
01-27-2005, 04:46 PM
Wait a minute....are you puttin' on that '60?
yes remember we just talk about that in our little PM conversation. What are you thinking?
DCEPTCN
01-27-2005, 04:52 PM
yes remember we just talk about that in our little PM conversation. What are you thinking?I'm wondering what you're doing to prepare the car for that...? It's not really set up to accomodate a turbo that large. When are the other mods coming?
ledzeppac
01-27-2005, 05:00 PM
I'm wondering what you're doing to prepare the car for that...? It's not really set up to accomodate a turbo that large. When are the other mods coming?
They are all there. The only thing missing is the injecters. Those will go on before the turbo. I can't think of anythign else I need to get... can you?
Then I will buy the "real" hotwire kit. But for now to drive around its no big deal.
I am blowing oil remember...
I think Postons http://www.postonbuick.com/ has the drainback gaskets for like $3. If not there than try Kirbans.
Sylvan, I hear 'ya on puttin that drainback on. I had to do mine twice because I over tightened the teflon like gasket and cracked it. I was soo pissed.
ledzeppac
01-27-2005, 07:03 PM
Thanks. Robert.
I just remembered. Is there any issues using my old wastegate? I suppose it works fine, but most people buy a new one...
the first time I replaced my stock one with a new adj stock wastegate actuator I noticed a difference...I cant remember what the difference was.
ledzeppac
01-27-2005, 07:40 PM
well mine is adjustable.
I just meant change it becuase its covered in oil...
well mine is adjustable.
I just meant change it becuase its covered in oil...
Did you fix the oil problem? If not, the new one would get covered in oil too. I think oil can blow through your wastegate SOLENOID and into your actuator. I'd be worried about coking in the actuator maybe? I dont know.
Kirbans is about the cheapest place to get the wastegate solenoids. $25 or so.
gnfreak
01-27-2005, 09:28 PM
i thought bout putting some metric studs in place of the bolts when i changed out stockers on the 87. i put one of the braided drainback hoses on and thought i would have enough flex to get over the studs. only problem was the nuts i had to use on the studs seemed kinda sloppy so i abandoned the idea and cussed the thing on with the bolts. this was after i attatched the feed line and turned over the motor with out the computer wire hooked up to make sure the oil was coming out the bottom of the turbo. had a little bowl to catch the oil....mostly.
87natty
01-28-2005, 12:30 AM
Clean the hell out of your oil feed and oil return lines! And I hope you do the converter quick, your turbo spool will be longer than all hell.
ledzeppac
01-28-2005, 12:41 AM
Brian I am not relly concerned about boost. Unfortunatly I havn't given my car more than 5 lbs of boost in 5 months. :dong: Not very fun.
thanks for the responses I'll probably have more later
TRacer
01-31-2005, 11:07 PM
Phil,
I have several turbo oil drain line gaskets in the garage if you need one. If it's any help, the folks at that performance shop right next door to Fairway Ford on Yorba Linda Blvd gave me half a dozen or so free. As for the copper gasket, I would recommend foregoing the gasket and instead use a thin coating of red RTV after making sure the header flange is completely flat.
EDIT: I probably have a good WG solenoid in my stuff too.
HTH,
Morgan
c&cgn
02-01-2005, 09:10 PM
8mm x 1.25 thread studs work great for getting the oil return line back on. I also like using the steel braided return line as well. Both of these make it a much quicker easier job. The studs need to be about 1.5" long.
I can now re & re a turbo in about 45 minutes. It's borderline rediculous how many times I've swapped turbo's. :rolleyes1
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