Intercooler

[PONY KLR]

HEY GUYS LOOK AT MY SIG WHAT IS THE BEST INTERCOOLER FOR ME TO BUY UNDER SAY 1000.00 THATS ALL I NEED AND I THINK IM FINISHED (YEAH WHO AM I KIDDING!) :add_wegbr

[zbuickman]

your injectors seem to be undersized to that turbo to me. shouldnt they be 50,s at least. im not flaming just wondering myself, looking to upgrade in the future

[PONY KLR]

i dont think so ive never had anybody tell me that before. including my motorguy. :racer: :anbet:

[1KWIK6]

For your car, the ThunderFab intercooler would be more than enough.

www.thunderfabrications.com

-HTH-

[GNX 305]

Anyone have any opinions on the Mease 24 Row intercoolers. Also are their 15, 17,20 row IC's just the same old Buick cores?.Thanks. Kevin

[HairDrier]

The Mease one looks sweet, but as always with him how many does he have in supply? If he had one one his shelf and could get it to me in less than a week I would buy one.

You need to buy a Mease scoop with that IC also I believe

[R.MERRITT]

For your car, the ThunderFab intercooler would be more than enough.

www.thunderfabrications.com

-HTH-

I second that. :applaus:

[BlownZ]

I third it. My Thunder Fab 20 row is a great unit.

[COLD AIR]

50-55's any F/M & rad.

Or we need to know what you are looking to run

[Turbo Rob]

If I were you I would go with the thunderfab unit.

[John Wilde]

If I were you I would go with the thunderfab unit.

The Precision Unit is nice, I also heard that they have a stock location unit in the works.

[Bruce]

From what I've seen,

Intercoolers are in a way thermal flywheels. They absorb heat, and then radiate that heat off. Being able to absorb heat means having MASS, being about to shed heat means having surface area, and for an air to air heat exchanger, lots of air flow.

If all your interested in is brute HP, the larger the better, the bigger the plumbing the better, the heavier the better, FM is the only way to get best cooling for it.

[1badTTA]

From what I've seen,

Intercoolers are in a way thermal flywheels. They absorb heat, and then radiate that heat off. Being able to absorb heat means having MASS, being about to shed heat means having surface area, and for an air to air heat exchanger, lots of air flow.

If all your interested in is brute HP, the larger the better, the bigger the plumbing the better, the heavier the better, FM is the only way to get best cooling for it.
OK Bruce, you have done the no intercooler (well actually it was chemical intercooling wasn't it?) test, now how about a FM with no mass versus a stock location with no airflow and alot of mass test. I think a stocker with a water box welded onto it and maybe a small radiator and pump to cool it down only running between runs would be realistic. Basically take the supposed downfalls of a stocker and multiply them and see if it works better. You never know, but a cast aluminum heatsink might be all you need for 12 seconds or less as long as it isnt too hot to begin with.

[1badTTA]

PONY KLR, please download this file or go here to get it
a very useful program (http://www.majorgeeks.com/download4073.html)

[BlownZ]

From what I've seen,

Intercoolers are in a way thermal flywheels. They absorb heat, and then radiate that heat off. Being able to absorb heat means having MASS, being about to shed heat means having surface area, and for an air to air heat exchanger, lots of air flow.

If all your interested in is brute HP, the larger the better, the bigger the plumbing the better, the heavier the better, FM is the only way to get best cooling for it.

This is bad information to give to a new guy. If you have an 11 second car then you don't need a front mount however the term brute hp will make them start to salivate and drool and then soon the side of the roads will be littered with overheated turbo regals. :albert:

[PONY KLR]

SO YOU DONT THINK A FRONT MOUNT WOULD GIVE ME MORE PERFORMANCE THAN THE THUNDER FAB? :fragez:

[Bruce]

OK Bruce, you have done the no intercooler (well actually it was chemical intercooling wasn't it?) test, now how about a FM with no mass versus a stock location with no airflow and alot of mass test. I think a stocker with a water box welded onto it and maybe a small radiator and pump to cool it down only running between runs would be realistic. Basically take the supposed downfalls of a stocker and multiply them and see if it works better. You never know, but a cast aluminum heatsink might be all you need for 12 seconds or less as long as it isnt too hot to begin with.

The trick with air to liquid intercoolers is using Ice. Ice holds alot of calories as compared to anything else, or
for sustained WOT then just run things at coolant temp, and not allow temps to deveate from a given. While 160dF at a glance isn't that cool, if it doesn't go over that, then you have a good situation, and with that is no thermal flywheeling.
Depending on what compressor your using you can be putting ALOT of BTUs into the charge air.
The first thing, I'd recommend doing is relocating the MAT into the upper plenum, and then seeing what is really going on. There's alot of bad info being infered from what I've heard people say to what I've actually seen. To include the fact that the I/C discharge temp may be low, but the air is in the manifold long enough to pick up alot of heat, so not always do you see the big gains one might expect. And depending on what's going on, having a MAT of like 130dF can be great for mileage.

[Bruce]

This is bad information to give to a new guy. If you have an 11 second car then you don't need a front mount however the term brute hp will make them start to salivate and drool and then soon the side of the roads will be littered with overheated turbo regals. :albert:


11 sec cars don't need a F/M,
you can universally state that as fact for all the 11 sec cars?. I'd about venture, that there's at least a few exceptions to that. While 11s with a car with slicks, a converter, and soft springs is one thing, taking a road racer type setup and running 11s on street tires, is going to take an entirely different combo. To say both need the same things, IMO, is misleading.

Since when does properly installing a F/M generate overheating?. If installing a F/M over heats a car, then there were other problems to begin with. There are lots of cars running F/M in the desert south west.

But, I'll still to my intial info., as the info. is correct.

[Otto J]

For 1049 you can buy hte baddest front mount around , Call Jack Cotton and spend the extra 50bucks,ITs huge and works extremely well
Here is his number 413-789-0531

[d0n_3d]

I'd go with the PTE front-mount for $895...been out for YEARS and has been proven time and time again...

[jsta6]

Who are these thunder fab guys?

I have never heard of them.

What is the difference between that one and Mease's?

[HairDrier]

Who are these thunder fab guys?

I have never heard of them.

What is the difference between that one and Mease's?
They should be about equal performance wise, and price wise. The difference is the Thunder Fab guys deliver on time, return calls and dont get on message boards and stick their feet in their mouths constantly.

I think most of Mease's problems have been fixed since he started selling through vendors only, like gbodyparts.com