Cross drilled rotors from Summit?

[WakkoSS]

I'm thinkin of putting them on the GN, they're about 80 bucks a piece. Anyone familiar with them? Any other suggestions? I've heard the grooved rotors tear up the pads in a hurry and to avoid em.

[Pronto]

I've heard the cross drilled ones crack :fragez: A friend that is a mechnic has seen cross drilled upgraded discs with cracks radiating from the holes. I would like to upgrade my front discs and pads and rear wheel cylinders and shoes. All I have gotten is a bunch of manufactures and prices to compare but also a bunch of conflicting info from the manufactures on drilled vs. slots. At this point I'm just thinking of going with stock style Breambo. From most of the posts I see on brakes, upgrading the pads to a more aggressive set does help stopping distance. My goal is not to use the S-10 wheel cylinders and mess up the braking bias. I would like to have better stopping distance and hold about 4 or 5 lbs of boost if possible. I have heard talk of the rear upgrade causing the rear to lockup first. Some guys mention going to a larger/stickier rear helped that but I can't afford a new set of tires also.

[Slow91z]

Hey Pronto, just to clear something up in your post....Yes larger wheel cylinders will make the rear lock-up more easily, but if you install a brake proportioning valve in line with the rear brakes, you can adjust it differently for the street and track.

[Slow91z]

Hey Wakko check these out...I don't know if they are "better" then the summit's but they look good.

Rotors (http://www.nationalfleetparts.com/rotors4.asp?make=BUICK&model=REGAL&year=1986&)

[tim87tr]

I had read the same thing about the drilled rotors having cracks. I replaced nearly everthing on my front suspension except the rotors. Powerslot rotors makes a nice looking slotted rotor for our cars that I may eventually get, but don't have any experience with them, but they look sweet and are slotted, not drilled. I added Performance Friction Ceramic pads (Autozone), and that made a huge difference in stopping.

I did a Google search on "Powerslot rotors" and found some for $100 each:
http://www.raceshopper.com/powerslot_cars.shtml

and info here:
www.powerslot.com
:yessir:

[raysgn]

I installed a pair of Powerslot rotors on my GN last year.
They have worked to perfection, the nice thing is they are cadium plated and will not rust.
Ray

[Bruce]

.

Some years ago, I spent some time trying drilled rotors on some motorcycles, and then on some cars.

Yes, on the extreme end of the performance scale there was a slight increase in braking performance. I tend to think that it was more from reducing the contact area, and in fact increased the effective pad pressure. The out gassing issue they are to prevent haven't been an issue in years for any level of street performance, IMO.

Cracking was always a problem.
Green Bedding was drastically reduced, when installing new pads.
In heany rain conditions, they really help.
Hi eye candy points.

Some manufacturers for a while didn't understand, that the material *behind* the holes needs to be put into compression during braking.

Using some Z rated performance Metallic Pads, AN lines, and flushing the fluid annually will do more them 99% of all the trick set-ups out there.

Serious launching should be done with a trans brake, rather then ruining the front to rear bias, in a street car.

Just my 2 cents worth.

[jsta6]

Has anyone heard of these:

http://www.nationalfleetparts.com/sp_performance.asp

[aperrego]

Has anyone heard of these:

http://www.nationalfleetparts.com/sp_performance.asp


Hey Justa6, who made your dash?

[Racer X]

There is no benefit to having crossed drilled or even slotted rotors for street duty. I road race on weekends and no one uses slotted or drilled rotors for the track because they are not reliable. They crack and in some cases have broken and fell off the car!

The latest craze seems to be Cryogenically treating the rotors that have been drilled to keep the temps down, but I have not seen enough pyrometer numbers to be convinced.

[jsta6]

Hey Justa6, who made your dash?

Me.

Bit of a PITA, but I learned a lot doing it. I started a write-up, but I don't think I finished it yet. Twins came and ruined all of that.

Go here:
http://bellsouthpwp.net/s/h/shawnco/gn/projects/

And go to the "speedo" directory. There is some pics in there. I will finish the write-up one day...

[Pronto]

Hey jsta6, I like the pics of your armrest. I see a piece of plywood that the rest is secured too. What did the armrest come off of? I made one out of an armrest from Olds 88.

[aperrego]

Hey Justa6, who made your dash?

Me.

Bit of a PITA, but I learned a lot doing it. I started a write-up, but I don't think I finished it yet. Twins came and ruined all of that.

Go here:
http://bellsouthpwp.net/s/h/shawnco/gn/projects/

And go to the "speedo" directory. There is some pics in there. I will finish the write-up one day...
Pretty nice amigo :applaus: What did you use ?? Hardware wise?

[jsta6]

Armrest is from a late 80's Caddilac Deville. I have a better one, I just haven't had a chance to put it on yet.

For the speedo, I took the old speedo out of the plastic cluster that holds it in place. I trimmed some of the plastic out of the middle. A buddy of mine who works at a car stereo store cut a piece of plexiglass with the three holes in it to hold the three guages (tach, speedo and gas). The gas guage hooked right up to the factory sending wire. The tach hooked up to the wire from behind the alternator. Becuase the VDO tachometers are possesed, I had to buy Caspers tach signal converter.

Now the cool part. The speed has a sender that you buy from VDO. The sender goes in between the two speedo cables that join together by the powermaster. I took an old speedo out of a junkyard regal and stripped it down to the VSS sender. I put the VSS sender in to a small project box that I got from radio shack. I connected this to the end of the speedo cable that used to go to the old speedo. This now sends the signal to the VSS buffer / ECM. Not my idea, but I think I was the first to actually do it. More info can be found on the "other" board.

Let me know if this link works:
http://bellsouthpwp.net/s/h/shawnco/gn/projects/speedo/speedo%20cable_frame.htm

[Pronto]

Armrest is from a late 80's Caddilac Deville. I have a better one, I just haven't had a chance to put it on yet.

Ah, that's where I remember seeing that. I did look in them to but I think the closest thing to fit was something from a Buick 98. The tricky part is to find one with a flat bottom. That what I found.